|
|
Revised March 20, 2008
Most of the electronic Fuel Injection components on your Vanagon are manufactured by Bosch. However, many of the other necessary components such as hoses, seals, air cleaner parts, etc., are manufactured by the respective OE manufacturers to Volkswagen, such as Continental, LMB, Goetz, Elring, etc. We have endeavored to supply as much OE components as is possible to obtain from sources both here in the United States and in Europe. Quality is our first priority when stocking and selling parts for fuel injection because it can be a major investment, even when replacing a relay. Below is our comprehensive list of replacement parts for the L-Jetronic Fuel Injection System on your 80-83 Vanagon or Westfalia. Please note that where there are split years in certain components, we have provided your VIN Number, or in the case of a Bosch component within split years, the Bosch number in Parentheses ( ).
Air Filters are very critical in determining how well your fuel injection runs. Too clogged up and the Air Flow Meter (Air Box) as well as the engine doesn't get enough air. In my opinion, filter elements should be changed every 10,000 miles, more so if you frequently drive in dusty conditions. Up until recently, we have been selling the German Mann units. Lately, our importer/supplier has been shipping Austrian Mahle, which is a division of German Knecht, an original supplier to Volkswagen. In addition, we have recently added K&N Filter Elements to our product line.
021-129-620 1980-1983 $10.00
ZAP-13772 K&N Filter Element 1980-1983 $59.07
Runs between the Air Flow Meter (Air Box) and the Throttle Body. Old ones are usually cracked, allowing vacuum leaks that can be difficult to track down if you don't know this.
071-129-967 1980-1983 NLA
AFM's, or Air Boxes as some people call them, if left alone usually last a long time. There's a flap inside that swings around letting air in as the throttle body wants it and the flap attached to a potentiometer that sends the appropriate signals to the ECU in regards to air flow amount. The potentiometer wipes across a circuit board and that can wear as well over time with constant use. Another common malady is if you have backfiring coming through the intake for various reasons, it can bend, crack or blow apart the flapper. Engine heat can also dry the teeny bearings the flapper shaft rides on, causing it to jam or bind up, restricting the air flow. It is highly recommended that when installing a new (or rebuilt) Air Box, that you have a mechanic with a CO "sniffer" fine-tune the Air Bypass screw (or allen on some) that's off to the side for optimum running. Don't fool with this yourself or you might have a heap o' problems.
Our Rebuilt Air Flow Meters are completely gone through and our experience on our own Buses & Vanagons with these have been exemplary. Warranty is 6 months.
071-906-301X (0280200025) 1980 Calif. Model $161.30 PLUS $75.00 Core
071-906-301AX (0280200028) 1980 Federal Model $218.99 PLUS $66..00 Core
071-906-301BX (0280200030) 1980-1983 Calif. Model $199.00 PLUS $66.00 Core
071-906-301CX (0280200032) 1980-1982 Federal Model $247.74 PLUS $75.00 Core
025-906-301X (0280200038) 1983 Federal Model $179.00 PLUS $66.00 Core
Note: Be sure to note the Bosch Number on your original Air Flow Meter. If the number on yours does not match the list above, please call us to properly interchange it for you.
022-906-045A 1980-1983 NLA
Also called a Vacuum Limiter, its that disc-shaped object the air intake elbow boot connects via the large vacuum hoses to, just to the left of the center air plenum. When the diaphragm inside cracks, there's a heck of a vacuum leak. These are becoming a real bear to find new or used and aren't cheap either. Prices for new ones range from $90 up to $150, half that for good used, depending on the year.
A. Decelerator Valve
071-133-551A 1980-1983 Manual Trans Calif. Model $135.60
071-133-551 1980-1983 Manual Trans Federal Model $143.95
B. Hose, Valve to Plastic Tube
N 20371.03 1980-1983 Manual Trans $1.00
C. Plastic Tube, Valve to Rubber "Y"
071-133-086 1980-1983 Manual Trans NLA
D. Rubber "Y" from Center Plenum to Plastic Tube & Power Brake Vacuum Hose
022-133-083D 1980-1983 Manual Trans $35.20
(Not Shown) Rubber Connector From Center Plenum to Power Brake Vacuum Hose (Goes in the same place as D above, but for Automatics.
071-133-083 1980-1983 Automatic $3.50
(Note: We have very few of these - VW Germany has obsoleted it recently.)
E. Hose - From Air Intake Elbow Boot To Decel Valve
See Note below
(Note: There is a substitute for this-you can use 3/4 inch smog hose from your local parts
store - cut to about 13 inches long. Original stuff is 18mm ID which is just a tad smaller
than 3/4", so clamps are recommended.)
F. Plastic "Y" Insert - From Air Intake Elbow Boot to Decel Hose (E) and Aux Air Valve Hose
022-133-215A Manual Trans 1980-1983 NLA
G. Plastic Insert, From Air Intake Elbow Boot to Aux Air Valve
071-133-215 Automatic 1980-1983 $1.90
G. Plastic/Was Metal Insert, From Air Intake Elbow Boot to Oil Breather Hose
025-133-199 1980-1983 $2.75
Bosch is currently obsoleting many models of ECU's. In fact, they never did introduce a rebuilt one for the California Model. Therefore, we have been sourcing these from an independent remanufacturer for the past few years and the quality meets or exceeds the Bosch quality. In fact, we've only had one defect in 2 years, so that has to be a pretty good track record. Many of them are very affordable, compared to Bosch's original pricing on those obsoleted and even those still available from Bosch. Warranty is 6 months.
071-906-021BX All Transmissions 1980-1983 $400.00 PLUS $110.00 Core
039-906-021EX Manual Trans 1980-1983 $395.00 PLUS $110.00 Core
039-906-021CX Automatic 1980-1983 $400.00 PLUS $110.00 Core
Often called the "5th Injector", it injects more fuel into your center air plenum when your engine is cold. Sort of a "choke system" for fuel injection. Operated by the Thermo-Time Switch, these rarely go bad. The only time they should be replaced is if they leak fuel or if the solenoid inside sticks or no longer functions.
022-906-171B 1980-1983 $180.00
The heart of your fuel injection system is the fuel filter. Once they become dirty and plugged, engine performance suffers and too little fuel getting to the fuel pump can cause the pump to seize. Never run a filter designed for carburetion on your fuel injection!
133-133-511 (Square Plastic Style) All States 1980, Federal 1981-1983 $4.80
251-201-511A (Metal Canister Style) Calif. Model 1981-1983 $16.00
Fuel Injectors can become clogged over a period of time or after a large amount of miles. Many people do not realize how sensitive these beasts can be. If loaded with junk, they can run either rich or lean, depending on where the junk is. The art of keeping these clean is to regularly change your fuel filter and run a fuel injector cleaner at least once a month in a tank of gas.
023-906-031 1980-1983 $175.00 each
Now available as a quality remanufactured unit, these can make changing out your injectors a little more affordable and a little less painful. Warranty is 6 months.
023-906-031X 1980-1983 $45.85 each PLUS $15.00 Core each
Contains 4 large and 4 small injector seals.
311-198-261A 1980-1983 $6.60 kit
New electric fuel pumps are available now from two sources - Bosch and A.P. Pierburg, both German manufactured. Quality is of course excellent. Warning! Never run an electric fuel pump dry as it will cause it to overheat and seize up. The fuel acts as a coolant for the fuel pump, so this is very important to keep in mind. In otherwords, don't run outa gas!
251-906-091 Bosch, 1980-1983 $268.00
251-906-091 GR Pierburg, 1980-1983 $260.00
Now available as an affordable rebuilt, we feels these pumps are as good, if not better than Bosch new ones. Warranty is 6 months.
251-906-091X 1980-1983 $136.25 PLUS $45.00 Core
Burnt contacts in these can sometimes cause failure of the fuel pump or just the relay itself. These aren't cheap. Thoroughly test your old one using the Bentley Manual troubleshooting guide before ordering, because Bosch will exchange, but not refund the cost of this relay if it's suspected to be defective. 8 out of 10 relays returned in the past 5 years proved to be just fine, so check your old one thoroughly first! By the way, of the 2 that were bad, there was 1 that Bosch heavily suspected that the person trying to replace it rewired their connector wrong, thus heavily burning it out. If you have to rewire the connector(s) because it has fallen apart, please triple check the wiring in your Bentley Manual, testing the beginning and end of each lead. There are two types of relays, so note the number of terminals so you can get the right one the FIRST time.
071-906-059 1980-1983 Federal with 11 terminal relay $94.65
071-906-059A 1980-1983 Calif. w/13 terminal relay $76.00
022-129-707F $8.15 each
These are those large diameter hoses that connect the center plenum to the individual intake runners going to each cylinder. Cloth braided original German is what we carry and 4 are required per Type 2. A notorious spot for vacuum leaks.
039-133-241 1974-1985 $3.70 each
N 20374.08 1980-1983 $2.00 (Hose Pre-Cut To Size)
022-129-637 1980-1983 *NLA*
022-133-127 1980-1983 $2.75
Genuine Continental 7mm High Pressure Fuel Hose with smooth covering, no outside braided cloth. Our opinion is that this a much better hose than the original braided hoses you find on the some of the FI Vanagons. Sold by the foot, not the meter like some other places. 12 to 15 feet usually does the engine compartment, supply lines and return lines, depending on the year.
N 20281.12 1980-1983 $4.10 per foot
(Note: We do carry the cloth braided variety for the fanatics - order N 20357.12
$2.15 per foot.)
The DLS Unit/Idle Stabilizer is usually located on the left engine wall next to the Ignition Control Module and has Round Plug Connectors. Because of the lean conditions associated with the emissions controls on your California Model Vanagon, without this unit, your idle sometimes "hunts", going up and down. When it fails, the engine won't start or run usually. Maintenance Tip: If equipped with this device, never try to time your engine with it connected. The timing mark at idle jumps all over the place. Before timing the engine, shut it off, disconnect the round plugs from the unit, then connect the plugs together, start the engine, be sure idle is at factory specs, set your timing accordingly, then turn off engine and reconnect your Idle Stabilizer. A pricey item at the dealer, our price is a lot lighter on the wallet.
251-906-083 1980-1983 Calif. Model NLA
All California Models and some Federal Models used a Single Wire Oxygen Sensor. How do you tell a California Model from a Federal Model? Take a look at where the Catalytic Converter is. If it's on the left side, next to the left Valve Cover, it's a California model. If it's in-line with the muffler out by the bumper, then it's a Federal model. Oxygen Sensors tell the ECU when to lean or richen your fuel mixture at the injectors by sending a small voltage signal in relationship to the presence of oxygen in the exhaust. Too much oxygen, it richens the mixture. Too little oxygen, it leans it out. A heavily sooted and carbonized probe won't allow the sensor to send a proper voltage to the ECU, usually making the engine run too rich, resulting in poor mileage and fouled spark plugs. Because Air Cooled engines (especially Bus & Vanagon 2 liters) run so hot, I recommend replacing them at least every 50,000 miles. What we carry is the Universal Bosch Sensor. This sensor looks just like your original except it doesn't have your standard long wire and connector. It has just a little pigtail wire with a crimp connector. Simply cut the existing wire off your old sensor, strip about a quarter inch off the insulation and then crimp that end onto the pigtail crimp connector. There - you just saved about $50 bucks for the real thing, which is also available from Bus Boys as well.
035-906-265 UN Universal Oxygen Sensor, Bosch $29.75
035-906-265 Oxygen Sensor w/Factory Connector, Lead and Grommet, Bosch $73.15
022-906-035 1980-1983 $107.00
Another handy device that's actually a transducer, sending the temperature signals to the ECU to adjust your fuel mixture. When they go out - the engine don't run. Quick fix for this if out on the road and without a spare is to hook a jumper wire to the sender at the head with a test light - hook the other end to the wire that connects to the harness and should offer some connection and resistance to allow the engine to run - not that great - but it will get you to the next pit-stop to find the real thing.
022-906-041 1980-1983 $18.45
This operates your Cold Start Valve. When your engine is stone-cold or in cold conditions when your engine is warm, there is a temperature controlled probe that samples the ambient air temperature in the engine compartment. At certain (i.e.: cold) temperatures, it completes the electrical circuit to your Cold Start Switch to operate it. After the engine is started, the ECU disconnects the power to the Thermo-Time Switch, shutting the electrical current off to your Cold Start Valve. While the engine is running however, the temp probe is still measuring the ambient temperature and also keeps the switch off if above a certain point. This is why your cold start valve should not work in warm temperatures or when the engine is still warm. Consult your Bentley Manual for temperature ranges.
043-906-163A 1980-1983 $68.70
We have recently introduced the following items to aid in the repair of your FI Harness, particularly dealing with connnectors and terminals. We get dozens of calls every week looking for the complete connectors to repair existing harnesses. Unfortunately, many of these connectors only came with a new harness, with a few exceptions. In many cases, all that's needed to repair the harness are the "flat" spring-loaded connector terminals, which have been very difficult to find. These are brand-new, not used or reconditioned connectors. The following are the connector housings and special terminals we now have available, including the tool to work with them.
Fits Injectors, Thermotime Switch, Cold Start Valve and Aux Air Valve. Comes as the Housing only (Re-use your harness and terminals) or pre-wired with contact terminals and short "pigtail" wires for reconnection to your harness. VW has obsoleted these numbers for sometime now.
022-906-231A Connector Housing With Clip $4.05 each
022-906-231AK Connector Housing w/terminals and pigtail wires $8.45 each
Fits the above Connector Housing, as well as a number of FI Multi-Pin Connectors and the connector to the Electronic Ignition Module on 80-83 California Models.
357-971-741AW Contact Terminal w/Pigtail Wire $1.10 each
A handy tool to have when replacing the contact terminals above in almost any of the FI Harness Connectors
ZVT-90601 FI Harness Pin Tool $2.95
This clip keeps the connector housings attached to your Injectors, Thermotime Switch, Cold Start Valve and Aux Air Valve. Without these, engine vibration can sometimes cause the Connector Housing to come loose, even fall off what its attached to.
022-971-999 Clip, Connector Housing $1.15 each
Back To Home Page | Back To Online Catalog | Back To The Top | Email Us
Order Toll Free (800)792-2697 | Information (530)244-1616 | 24 Hour Fax (530)244-0933